About 60 miles north of Healdsburg and along some seriously winding roads that might cause motion-sickness for some lies the Anderson Valley.  This American Viticultural Area (AVA) is well-known for producing some fantastic Pinot Noir, so it didn’t take much for my tour guide for the day, Deb Kravitz (@whatdebpours), to convince me we should make the trek.  If you are visiting the Napa/Sonoma area and want to check out what Anderson Valley has to offer you will need to plan for an entire day due to the distance and time it takes to get up there and back.  But, it will be well worth the trip.

The main grape varieties planted in the AVA are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and White Riesling.  Warm sunny days and cool foggy nights are ideal for these types of grapes and ensures slow maturation leading to maximum flavor and development of varietal character.

Roederer Estate Brut Rose

Roederer Estate – Started in 1982 by the historic, 200-year old Champagne Louis Roederer, they are obviously well-known for sparklers but also make still wines.  We chose to stick with the bubbly to start our trip.  The view from the property is spectacular and my favorite was the NV Brut Rose.  However, Deb informed me that the L’ Ermitage Rose rocks even more, though they were not pouring it

Husch Vineyards Tasting Room

Husch Vineyards – Husch has quite a large list of wine to choose from which made it difficult to select just 6 for the basic tasting.  It included Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.  After some deliberation and a little sensory-overload, we ended up with 2 Gewurztraminers, 3 Pinots and a Zin.  The 2008 Pinot Noir was very expressive with anise and bing cherries on the nose while the 2006 Knoll Pinot Noir reminded me of Oregon-style Pinots with cherry cola characteristics.  In the end, I enjoyed the 2009 T-Bud Dry Cuvee Gewurztraminer the most with it’s floral, citrus and spice aromas.

Toulouse Vineyards – Named for the type of domesticated Goose originating near Toulouse, France, the owners released their first vintage (2002) in 2005.  The Pinot Noir Rose’ had a light, salmon-orange tint and was refreshing with watermelon and strawberries on the nose.  The 2009 Pinot Gris and 2009 Muscat were standouts as well.

Phillips Hill Estates – The tasting room is a cool little old house in Philo.  While you are there, you can get a sandwich at the small grocer next door too.  The winery is the child of artist, Toby Hill, who was, unfortunately, not around while we were there.  Deb tells me he is quite an interesting guy and that he creates his own labels for the wines. There is more Gewurz and Pinot Noir, including 2 bottles of 2008′s containing fruit that was affected by the fires in the area that year.  I particularly enjoyed the 2008 Ring of Fire and the smoke taint was less recognizable on the nose still allowing the luscious fruit to take center stage.  The 2007 Corby was the most delicate and elegant in the lineup.

2009 Jim Ball Rose of Pinot Noir

Jim Ball Vineyards – A retired lawyer, Jim started his winery and teamed up with infamous winemaker, Greg La Follette, to make some truly outstanding Pinot Noir.  This was a great way to finish the day of tasting.  The 2009 Rose’ Pinot Noir has a salmon-orange hue with luscious red fruit and watermelon aromas.  Greg’s creations, the 2006 Estate Pinot Noir and the 2007 Boonville Pinot Noir were also outstanding.  The latter was a little herbaceous at first, but eventually blew off allowing anise and black cherries to come through.  For those looking for a bolder Pinot Noir, check out the 2007 Jim Ball Pinot Noir that displays bacon fat, sandalwood (like woodust on the floor of my grandfather’s wood shop) and black cherries.  Deb and I had the pleasure to also try a few barrel samples and we both agree that the 2009 vintage is going to knock your socks off.

The evening ended with dinner at long-time and well-known Rodney Strong and Iron Horse winemaker in a previous life, Forrest Tancer, and Cynthia Ariosta.  Both are very much involved with horses and hosting long-distance riding events.  The view from their home up on the Greenwood Ridge was phenomenal, though we did not get to the see the usual early evening fog “event” everyone talked about.  Still, this was a good day.

Horses

Lately, there has been discussion and worry about the cool temperatures being experienced in Northern California, particularly from grape growers in Sonoma and Russian River Valley.  At this time of year grapes should be well into veraison, the ripening stage of the development cycle where grapes begin to change color, sugars and berry size increase and acids begin to decline.  However, due to cooler weather, many vineyards are yet to see the onset of veraison or have only just begun to see changes.  It is well understood that cooler climates lead to improved color, higher acid and more varietal flavors all resulting in a higher quality wine.  However, the harvest window becomes much tighter for growers when determining the right time to pick as they wait for optimal sugars, acid levels and flavors to develop before the October rains arrive.

Jennifer Thomson, of Thomson Vineyards in Carneros, has this take on the 2010 season:

“We agree with what many are saying:

1. It will either be an epic season or the variables we can’t control will come into play and create the perfect storm and
2. Winemakers need to get comfortable with picking at lower Brix to get fruit in at the crush pad this year and miss the late October rains

We are recommending, and are fortunate to be working with several winemakers who have already requested, to pick at lower Brix in 2010.  This leads to less alcohol in the wine and getting back to the elegant and refined wines California became known for in the 80s and early 90s. Three winemakers we work with are on deck to pick at 23.5 brix: Bravium Wines, Kelham Winery and Black Sheep Finds.  The former two picked at 24+ last year. The latter at 23.1 brix (which resulted in a 13.5% alcohol in 2009 Hocus Pocus Thomson Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir bottled yesterday). While all are happy with their respective wines, as growers, we award the 2009 Thomson Vineyards Gold Star to winemaker Peter Hunken of Black Sheep Finds for making the pick call three weeks prior to anyone else in 2009 leading to damn fine wine! We’re looking forward to picking early for him again this year!”

According to the Press Democrat, the average maximum temperature for July was 75.1 degrees F, more than 7 degrees below the 50-year average.  It was also the second lowest temperature average for July since 1960.  A quick look at the Growing Degree Days measurement for 2010 compared to 2009 shows the impact.  The degree day concept and calculation was developed by Dr. Winkler and Amerine in the 1930′s as a way to classify the different growing regions of California and is used as an indicator of ripening in a particular region.  Degree days is an accumulated value using the following daily calculation throughout the growing season (often from April 1 to October 31, but dependent upon the region):

(( high temp + low temp) / 2) – 50

Basically, it is the average temperature for the day subtracted by 50F, which is the point below which little to no photosynthesis occurs in the grapevine and therefore has no effect on ripening.  There are some shortcomings to this equation that I won’t go into here and it is still used as the standard.  WineBusiness.com has a page devoted to this type of information and can be found here.  Interestingly, the data they retrieved for Bennett Valley shows a much larger discrepency between this year and last year than my data below even though I retrieved it from the same source (http://ipm.ucdavis.edu – UC Davis Integrated Pest Management).  There could be some minor variations in the formula used accounting for the difference.  Instead, I decided to collect degree day data from another CIMIS (#103) station in Windsor, CA for the illustration below, which shows 2010 well below 2009 values throughout the entire season so far.

Using the WineBusiness.com site and cycling through previous vintages, I noticed that for Napa, 2010 is looking very similar to 1998 in terms of the degree days accumulation to-date.  In 1998, Napa had weather and disease pressure including late rains in May and June and unusually cool weather due to El Nino.  This caused delays in budbreak, early vine development and bloom.  However, the vintage “recovered” due to a warm and dry “Indian Summer” in October allowing the fruit to completely ripen with excellent flavor development.  In Sonoma, for the 2010 vintage to reach the same total degree days accumulated in 2009 (2673), the average daily temperature will need to be 64.8F between now and October 31st.

So, while the 2010 harvest is certainly delayed by a few weeks based on current information, there is still time for warmer weather to arrive and allow the fruit to mature as expected.  Furthermore, let’s hope the climate-induced slower ripening process combined with winemaker acceptance to possibly pick earlier than usuual results in maximum flavor development and quality.  Then again, I haven’t seen a negative vintage report yet so maybe another miracle is in order.  All I know is that it may extend my harvest internship much to John Holdredge’s dismay, but I will do my best to bring the heatwave with me from the South.

Much has been written regarding the “speed dating” of wine tasting with wine bloggers in Walla Walla.  I especially like Josh’s take here at DrinkNectar.com.  Below are my quick notes from that event of the Whites that were presented, though I admit there are a few wines missing because I didn’t get any notes down in time.  That’s the risk of such a style of tasting:

LeCole 41 – 2008 Semillon – 89% Semillon, 11% Sauvignon Blanc – Columbia Valley – apricots, honey, lots of minerality on the finish… good acid.  Minerality + high latitude + longer hang time = mineral uptake.  The complex minerals historically were broken up and brought down by ancient glaciers.   Winery started in 1983, Mary became winemaker in 1989… one of first whites was Semillon.

Parducci – 2007 Sustainable White – Mendocino – Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli – Very floral nose.

Pithy Little Wine Co. – 2009 Sangiovese Rose – 98% Sangiovese, 2% Syrah – Strawberries, raspberries, and cherry.  Lightly pressed, add color with Syrah <– why?

Ortman, Paso Robles – 2007 Edna Valley Chardonnay -Bright, golden hue – Jonjie’s favorite

Pepperwood Grove (Don & Sons) – The Big Green Box, 15% growth based on Nielson… makes for awkward “pouring” while walking around the table, $19.99 – same for the Big House Octovin – not going to impress the ladies here gents!  Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc (10%) Viognier (splash) – Oak staves for 6 months – green nose, like opening a can of veggies (worked with Joe on this one), oak nose, partial malolactic fermentation

That looks awkward and semi-uncomfortable!

Longshadow – 2009 Riesling – very clear, pale yellow color, 1.3% RS, very sharp acidity = 3.05 pH

Maryhill – 2008 Viognier – great aromas, but toastyness from oak barrels doesn’t align with how I enjoy Viognier

Hogue Cellars – 2008 Genesis Chardonnay – unoaked, no malolactic fermentation therefore pretty crisp… all apples and pears… texture/brioche due to yeast lees.. light minerality on finish  $16

Buty – 2008 Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle – oak aged in old wood, completed malolactic fermentation… the color is bright yellow leaning toward chartreuse… nice acid, crisp, floral, honeysuckle

Dusted Valley – 2009 Columbia Valley  Rose – Sangiovese.  Deep salmon color… another good rose’…  raspberries and strawberries… distinct, aromatic, $18, great red fruit palate, finish stays strong.  Chad’s a good guy.

My favorites in this lineup were the Pithy Little Wine Co. 2009 Sangiovese Rose’ and the Hogue Cellars 2008 Genesis Chardonnay.

World Meteorological Organization

After a wonderfully moderate and chilling-on-the-patio afternoons last weekend, the entire east coast is now in the midst of a heat wave this week.  Afternoon temperatures have been constantly in the 90′s, with some places pegging 100F.  If you’ve purchased wine from a winery during the summer months or are club members of any wineries then you know that shipping during this time of the year ceases until cooler temperatures return near the Fall season.  Heat is not a friend to wine, so make sure you are storing your wine appropriately, especially those that you plan to hold for several years.

The optimal long-term storage temperatures for wine is 50-59F, which practically mimics the temperature of those underground caves many wineries use to store barrels and bottles.  If you dial it down a little lower, maturation of your aging wines will develop more slowly and, conversely, the higher the temperature the more rapid the aging process.  So, wine cellar’d at 86F should technically age twice as fast as wine stored at 68F, however, these higher temperatures will often “cook” the wine resulting in cooked, jammy aromas overwhelming the more desirable phenolics.  Wine stored in UPS or FedEx warehouses over night or travelling around town in those hot-boxes on wheels until they get to your house, which is always the last house of the day in my case, will have a much higher chance of getting cooked.  Furthermore, wine stored in closets, above the refrigerator, or in kitchen cabinet racks are susceptible to higher than optimal temperatures, especially in these hot summer months down here in the South.  I would recommend a wine fridge or cabinet of some sort that you can find online, in catalogs or even at your local hardware superstores these days.

But what if you have more than just a case or two of wine that needs a constant and controllable environment?  That’s where facilities like Buckead Wine Storage can help and they are currently offering a FREE wine locker that can hold up to 9 cases for one year, thanks to the assistance of Tower Beer, Wine and Spirits.  How can you take advantage of this deal?  Just answer a few easy questions in this survey — click HERE. 

Pssst! Go HERE for a few hints to make the survey even easier! ; )  and pass this along to your friends… maybe you and a friend can even share the space if you don’t have 9 cases of wines yourself.

Cheers!

Join the Twitter Tasting with Halleck Vineyards!
Open any bottle of your Halleck Vineyard Pinot Noir on July 15 th at 5 – 7 pm PST.   Taste.  Tweet with others all over the US.

Ross and Jennifer Halleck are hosting a Halleck Vineyard Pinot Noir tasting at:  
        Aubergine Café and Bar
        755 Petaluma Ave.
        Sebastopol, CA 

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They will have the big screen wired to follow tweets around the country. And they will be adding theirs too. Please join them!!

For those new to the medium, including the Hallecks, Twitter is a mobile application for passing short news messages to anyone interested from your phone or computer.

We hope you gather your friends and break out your Halleck Vineyard Pinot for this ground breaking event. Then log on with your phone or computer to Twitter. Type in your comments and include “#pinotnoir” (no quote marks) at the end plus “#SN” for Sonoma Coast to “vote” for our region. This will allow your comments to appear on the Twitter Tasting and Smackdown thread.

If you write a tweet about Halleck Vineyard Pinot, they will give you a 15% discount on a bottle of Halleck Vineyard Pinot Noir!  Get tweeting!

For more information and to register go here: http://pinotnoir.eventbrite.com/

If you are a winery and want to know how to take advantage of a fun event like this, please check out this link.