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28
Jan
[Disclosure: Artesa picked up the tab for dinner and, of course, brought the wine]
Artesa has been around since 1991 when it was established as Cordoniu Napa before transforming into its current identity in 1997. Starting in 2009 and now going into 2010, it is clear Artesa is making some changes once again. One obvious shift, that Tim Shippey, Brand Director, admits right off the bat this evening is that they recognize the need to approach alternative media channels, including wine bloggers, to help promote their products, which triggered this dinner hosted at Bone’s in Buckhead, near Atlanta. To legitimize Artesa’s new foray into social media marketing, the marketing and technical sheet for the 2005 Ridgeline Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley includes a list of tasting scores by Vinography, a well-respected wine blog authored by Alder Yarrow. I was just happy when they visited my city I was included along with some of my favorite local wino’s to join in the festivities.
If you’re not familiar with Artesa, they are located in the cooler climes of Carneros, a great place to be growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The winery is built into a hillside that reminds me of a short Mayan temple or Indian burial ground. I understand the desire to blend into the environment, but it takes on a spaceage feel with the straight lines and bunker-style entrance that reminds me of the door to the Empire’s underground fortress on Endor. The grounds (internal and external) are decorated with fantastic art, which was by original design.
When you hear Mark Beringer’s name, most who have had at least one glass of wine in their life will probably recognize his last name, which denotes U.S. winemaking royalty of Beringer winery, which have been around since the late 1800’s. Mark is a fifth generation winemaker, but has created a legacy all his own having made some tremendous wines at Duckhorn winery since 1992. When asked what he brings to the table as the VP of Production and Winemaking at Artesa since early 2009, he deftly applies some baseball analogies stating that his predecessor focused on “going yard” while he likes to play a little small ball.
When asked why he decided to take the position at Artesa, Mark discusses his love of the historic winemaking background of the Raventos family of Spain having been established in 1551 as well as the company’s current state-of-the-art facilities and vineyard assets. However, there are a few things he’d like to bring to the table all his own and implement his “small ball” strategy. Mark focuses on developing and grasping multiple components that he can have at his disposal during the blending stage, much like building a spice rack containing fruit, structure and spice. This way he has something to build with and develop stylistic wines that are fruit-driven, requiring minimal manipulation and contain more representation of terroir.
Another change, which is very obvious in the marketing materials and readily confirmed by Tim and Mark is the focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the jewels of Carneros. Previously, Artesa stretched itself beyond those core competencies of the region venturing into many varietals in an attempt to be all things to all people. But, now many of those will be demoted to the new secondary Elements label. Just last Fall I enjoyed the 2005 Artesa Reserve Tempranillo Alexander Valleyand I wonder what will be the impact of such drastic changes to this winery’s lineup? Only time will tell and it will be a couple of years before we begin to see some of Mark’s work under the Artesa label.
Here is the rundown of the wines experienced during the dinner:
2008 Chardonnay Carneros – About 10,000 cases produced. Light straw in color, the nose presented pears and some caramel/vanilla. The taste carried the vanilla forward with citrus and a medium level of acid.
2007 Chardonnay Reserve- About 2,500 cases produced. The color was a darker golden hue and produced toast, apple and vanilla notes on the nose. This wine underwent only 30% MLF so the toast and vanilla was not overwhelming. On the palate I got vanilla, citrus and with higher level of crisp acid. More importantly there as a level of texture and mouthfeel perceived due to the increase time in barrel and sur lie aging. This was a phenomenal Chardonnay.
2007 Pinot Noir Carneros- Light to medium ruby color and pure fruit up front on the nose with a hint of tobacco and cola. The taste brought on some strawberries and cherries. This wine was 100% Pinot Noir.
2007 Pinot Noir Estate Reserve- The color was a little darker more toward the garnet spectrum possibly due to some extended cold soak time. The nose had some big fruit along with some “funk” and hint of cedar and spice. The taste provided some dark, black cherry and a decent level of texture on the mouthfeel.
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley- This wine was a little hot at first, but much blew off quite quickly. Nose and palate brought big fruit of blackberry and cassis with a medium level of mouthfeel.
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley- This was very fruit-forward and silky smooth on the nose. I felt this contained more chewy tannins and was more complex than the Napa Valley offering.
To finish the night off, as many wine-filled evenings often do, Tim asked if he should bring a stash of some single vineyard Cabs he had in his car. I hope we are not giving away any secrets here. As any good wine lush would do, we sat back down and said “hell yeah!” This was the result:
Ridgeline is another property owned by Cordoniu that sits upon Oak mountain in the northern part of Alexander Valley. There is an interesting story behind this property, but I’ll let you research that yourself. Here’s what we thought about the wine:
2005 Ridgeline Cabernet Sauvignon Lone Pine – only 100 cases produced (81% Cab, 19% CF) – 1200′ elev – Nose of chocolate and mint and was very smooth on the palate with blackberries and vanilla. The mouthfeel was long and strong and down to get the friction on…
2005 Ridgeline Cabernet Sauvignon Standing Bear – 100 cases produced, 100% cab – 1700′ elev - A little darker than the Lone Pine and much more fruit forward and reminded me of candied fruit. The saying goes that manly-men enjoy this wine, whilst the women-folk flock to the Lone Pine. Don’t tell the others, but I preferred the more vibrant Lone Pine myself.
So, there you go. Read it and weep. A job well done by Artesa in communicating their change in focus and exposing some powerful offerings from Carneros, Napa and Alexander Valley. Now we wait for Mark Beringer to do his thing at the plate taking whatever the pitcher gives him and building his spice rack. Can’t wait.
Cheers!



















