The recent ruling in favor of Gallo’s proposal to expand the Russian River Valley AVA further south to Cotati and specifically include all of their Two Rock Vineyard just off Hwy 101 has raised more than a few eyebrows. Wine Industry Insight has been on this story for several years and raised more than a few issues not only with Gallo’s claims but also with the TTB’s process and regulations. On the surface it seems once again the big corporation bullies its way to get what it wants, but at what price? What does this expansion potentially mean for winegrowers, producers (majority of smaller wineries) and, more importantly, consumers?
The battle for expansion has been going on since at least the early 90′s and pushes the RRV AVA boundary further south to Cotati, a move adamantly opposed by the Russian River Valley Winegrowers and notably Merry Edwards in this article, though several producers in the area were outspoken on this issue. The expansion totals more than 14,044 acres bringing the total AVA acreage to 169,028. The winegrowers argued weather conditions were, indeed, not the same and resulted in extended harvest dates when compared to the current AVA, however, Gallo contended the geographic components including climate and soils were, in fact, the same and seemed to have provided more evidence to the TTB than the naysayers. It also appears the TTB process is based more on the information provided by all parties and not by bringing in any independent experts to validate such claims.
What is clear is that Gallo’s Two Rock Vineyard (350 acres) was a focus and expected to be included in the final boundary proposal. It is my opinion that this argument is less a geographic and climatic one and more about what Gallo does with the juice from this region and how it impacts the perception and reputation of the “brand” that is Russian River Valley. We all know Gallo (most brands anyway) is a bulk producer more interested in high yields, high volume and low price and that can only mean less than great things when is comes to the level of quality we’ve come to expect from the Russian River Valley, don’t you think?
a viticultural area for American wine [is] a delimited grape-growing region having distinguishing features as described in part 9 of the regulations and a name and delineated boundary as established in part 9 of the regulations. These designations allow vintners and consumers to attribute a given quality, reputation, or other characteristic of a wine made from grapes grown in an area to its geographic origin. The establishment of viticultural areas allows vintners to describe more accurately the origin of their wines to consumers and helps consumers to identify wines they may purchase
Complete ruling and supporting information can be found here: http://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2011/11/16/2011-29519/expansions-of-the-russian-river-valley-and-northern-sonoma-viticultural-areas
I am curious as to why when making a case for the Two Rock Vineyard degree day comparison to the rest of RRV, why they used 1996-98 data instead of something more recent? Is the next step to create smaller AVA’s within RRV to target further uniqueness or does that become too confusing for the regular consumer? But, as some have pointed out, what is done is done, so why not just move along?
I once said on this blog that when drinking Pinot Noir there are no losers, but now I am not so sure.
What are your thoughts?
Gallo Proposed
RRV Map Prior
Gallo’s success with the TTB on the extension of the RRV AVA more than coincidentally has something to do with fruit consolidation during the fermentation, punchdown, and filtering in their Frei Brothers Ranch facility. This very large device is designed to minimize the unit costs of 2 million cases of wine per year made from their vineyards in RRV and DCV. That minimization objective takes place at a high cost point when they have to manage properties south of RRV. So their solution is to move the fence posts.
The victory might be short-lived. Please read my VineBuzz post: Everything that You Need to Make Two Million Cases of Fine Wine Per Year http://www.vinebuzz.biz/node/29
Rich, thanks for the response and I can see your point on consolidation in fermentation, et al. So, they save a few beans in their grand manufacturing approach to wine to what detriment to the AVA as a whole? 2 million cases can sway things a little bit methinks. Will check out your post… cheers!
He who has the most money….WINS! It’s always about profit, taxes, and for Gallo smoking mirrors.
I hope they do not screw up the great reputation of the Russian River Valley
Tim, unfortunately that is the case in many situations like this… only time will tell now… thanks for the comment!
Ed, The RRV and Sonoma Coast were the first two AVAs to really fuel my interest in wines grown in cooler climates and sites. The wines I like to drink tend to come from one of those two areas. Unfortunately, both are both so large geographically and diverse in growing conditions that those AVA designations are rendered nearly meaningless in my search for wines that I like. I’m very interested in the efforts to create a new sub-AVA in the westernmost area of the Sonoma Coast that truly repesents the ‘true’ Coast. Unfortunately, I don’t think a similar scenario is likely for the Russian River. For a wine enthusiast who already thought the RRV was too large to be stylistically relevant, this latest addition doesn’t seem to make much difference. But it certainly does nothing to enhance my opinion of the RRV brand. Cheers
Fred,
Very good point regarding size of the AVA. There is the Green Valley in RRV, so perhaps further slicing/dicing can help narrow in on distinct differences in the region. I can still identify with wines (in Pinot mostly) from RRV with a distinct style, but changes like this along with the larger span would seem to lead to dilution IMO as well.
Thanks for chiming in!
Ed
I admire the moxie and business skills of the OG Gallos of Modesto “Ernesto and Julio” . Way to raise the bar Matt and Gina the Sonoma Gallos. For what my lil ol take is…. it’s like Mick Jagger and Paul McCartney becoming Sir Mick and Sir Paul. The RRV is what it is and regardless of politics. We know what the expected AVA will deliver. It is up to the grower and winemaker to make it live up to the incredible expectations and potential of the RRV.
Michael,
While I agree the business skills of the wine industry’s version of Camelot are undeniable, politics unfortunately do often get in the way and can blur what consumers have become to know in an AVA. Think about the recent requirement to put Sonoma County on every wine bottle regardless of AVA. We can only speak to what the business has done in the past and their normal m.o. for mass production, high volume and low prices. I certainly hope they decide to “live up” to the expectations of RRV for sure.