Near the top of the Russian River Valley off of West Side Road in Healdsburg, in an area the locals call the Middle Reach, you will find a relatively new winery (about 4-5 years old) called C. Donatiello. But, really, it’s an existing winery reincarnated in both name and purpose. The winery is named after the new owner who partnered with the owners of the previous Belvedere winery and now managed by the combined parties as The Hambrecht Wine Group. Chris Donatiello is a great guy who cut his teeth in the distribution side of the business back on the east coast before embarking on this adventure.
One of the first things he did was to re-trellis the estate vineyard back in 2005, which produced it’s first fruit in 2006 with reduced tonnage to improve the level of quality, and established a focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the darlings of the Russian River valley. They currently produce about 5,000-6,000 cases a year. One thing that remained, though, is the beautiful aroma gardens out front that now include Tuscany rosemary hedges, grapefruit trees, pear trees, apple trees, rose bushes and various herbs just to name a few. At this time of year, the foliage is just awakening from their winter slumber, so the garden was not as vibrant as I recall from last summer, but it is still a great experience. The idea is to enhance your sense of smell, which is obviously a huge part of the wine experience, by being exposed to such a variety of aromas. More specifically, the species planted are those that are meant to align best with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Concerts are another huge change for this progressive winery and they have had some big names including Otis Taylor and Sara Bareilles grace their outdoor stage.
Finally, saving the best for last, their wines are some of the best I’ve had. The Guild Room is off to the left of the tasting room counter and is not just a private tasting room, but also an exclusive space that members can reserve to access their wine lockers and drink with friends or by themselves whenever they like. We had the luxury of having a tasting hosted by the wonderful and talented Vanessa, the tasting room manager, in this room. Here was the wine rundown on this trip, with just a few notes about each:
2007 Chardonnay Russian River Valley – light straw in color, citrus notes, bright and lemony
2007 Chardonnay Orsi Vineyard – darker straw color toward golden, apples, pears, more creamy and texture in the mouth and a little clove spice on the finish
2006 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – light ruby in color, tart cherry notes and very delicate/elegant
2007 Pinot Noir Floodgate Vineyard – 100% Dijon 777, much bolder and the best texture of all the Pinots this day. Dark cherry fruit on the palate with a touch of herbs and baking spice, with tremendous mouthfeel
2007 Pinot Noir Hervey Vineyard Green Valley – Blend of 777 and 115 clones. Cherries and herbs again, but not as bold as the Floodgate, in fact, much more elegant with a long finish
Unfortunately, the Maddie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir was sold out, which was my favorite last summer, so while that was sad for us to learn during our visit, it must be a good thing for the winery and is evidence that the wine is just that good.
If you enjoy bright, textural Chardonnays and elegant Pinots that represent all the Russian River Valley offers and a well-rounded experience hosted by a great staff in a beautiful setting, then C. Donatiello should make it onto your wine country itinerary.
Cheers!
